You've mastered the basic skills of growing weed. With the Advanced Grow Guide, you'll learn techniques on how to get even more out of your harvest: higher yields, faster harvests, and improving the quality of your weed.

Who is this guide for?

This guide is designed as a reference book for anyone who has grown cannabis before and wants to take the art of growing to the next level with special techniques. No growing experience yet? Then read our Grow Guide for Beginners first. 

Why learn these techniques?

Before you apply the techniques below, you will need to know why you are doing this. Each technique is discussed in more detail here, but the underlying idea is that the final harvest will be more successful, the yield will be higher and the quality of your weed will increase. 

1

Topping

Topping is cutting off the tallest shoot on your plant. This breaks the vertical growth direction and forces the plant to grow width wise.

Purpose

By cutting off the top, you force the plant to grow wider and the side shoots will develop more fully. It also prevents the plant from growing (too) tall. Topping increases the number of buds, resulting in a higher yield.

  • The height of the plant is limited, which encourages a bushy growth
  • The leaves receive more light, which promotes the healthy growth of the plant
  • The plant develops more branches, and thus more buds

When

By cutting off the top, you force the plant to grow wider and the side shoots will develop more fully. It also prevents the plant from growing (too) tall. Topping increases the number of buds, resulting in a higher yield.

  • The height of the plant is limited, which encourages a bushy growth
  • The leaves receive more light, which promotes the healthy growth of the plant
  • The plant develops more branches, and thus more buds

Indoor or outdoor

This technique can be used both indoors and outdoors.

Tools required

  • Sharp scissors or knife.

How to do it

As soon as the plant begins to grow wider, cut off the top of the branch. This prevents the branch from growing any further, and it will develop new side branches. The plant will grow more in width and multiple buds will form. It’s crucial to apply this technique at the right time. 

When the weed plant has grown six or seven nodes, you may cut off the top, which is often done above the fifth node. Waiting until the plant has developed to this stage is very important, because by this time the plant can be able to withstand the shock that is caused by topping. Do not wait for too long, however. If you top a weed plant that has grown past seven nodes, you will cut off vertical growth, rather than keeping horizontal growth. 

While many of the growing techniques in this guide are more suitable for advanced growers, we believe topping can be performed by beginners. Read more about topping for beginners in our article 'Topping weed plants: a guide for beginners'. If you are planning to use this technique with your autoflower plant, make sure to also check out our 'Topping Autoflowers Guide'.

2

Fimming

Fimming is almost the same as topping, with the difference that you cut the top half off. This technique was discovered by accident and stands for: "Fuck, I Missed.", pardon our French. Afterwards, it turned out that the result is almost the same, but the plant experiences less stress. It is also more likely to produce four side branches instead of two as with topping.

Purpose

By cutting off part of the top, you force the plant to grow wider and the side shoots will develop more fully. It also prevents the plant from growing (too) tall. Fimming increases the number of buds, meaning you will end up with more weed.

  • The height of the plant is limited, which encourages a bushy growth
  • The leaves receive more light, which promotes the healthy growth of the plant
  • The plant develops more branches, and thus more buds

When

Fimming is done when the plant is four to five weeks old and/or has more than five branches (nodes). 

Indoor or outdoor

This technique can be used both indoors and outdoors.

Tools required

  • Sharp scissors or knife.

How to do it

As soon as the plant starts to grow wider, cut off 80-90% of the top. You use scissors for this, but you can also do it carefully with your nails. The top cannot grow any further and will develop new side shoots. Also, with this technique, the plant will grow more in width and develop multiple buds. To prevent the plant from experiencing too much stress, you will only be able to apply this technique in the fourth or fifth week. The plant will be less stressed by then.

3

Low Stress Training (LST)

Low Stress Training, or LST, is a technique in which you slowly manipulate the branches by bending them and securing them. By doing so, you shift the peak of the plant to the side branches. Instead of a pyramid shape, the plant takes on a wider star-shaped appearance. This allows the leaves to receive more light and the plant to create more growing points. Low Stress Training is an effective, yet simple technique to apply. Moreover, you don't need many tools, which makes it an inexpensive method as well. You can combine this method with 'Topping'.

Purpose

The ultimate goal of this training technique is to increase the yield of the plant. You can also use LST to shape your plant to fit better in a small growing space. In fact, with this training method, you control the size of the plant. The advantage of using this technique is that the plant is not disturbed while growing because it experiences little to no stress.

  • Higher yield due to multiple growth points
  • Fast growth because the plant is not stressed
  • Controlling the size of the plant

When

You can already apply this technique when the seeds have just sprouted and your plants are still young seedlings.

When (continued)

Of course, they must already have some branches/sprouts to be able to steer them in one direction. As soon as the second branch begins to grow, you can already start using the Low Stress Training method. By applying LST early on, the young branches will be flexible. This prevents a branch from accidentally snapping off down the line. 

Tools required

  • Pots
  • Pruning shears
  • Bamboo sticks
  • Rope or iron wire

How to do it

Once the young seedling begins to grow in height, very carefully push the top of the plant sideways. You secure the young branch with rope or iron wire. Insert the bamboo stick into the ground next to the plant. Tie the rope to the bamboo stick. Any large leaves that now hang over the top, you cut off. This will ensure that the horizontal top receives enough light. 

The stem of the little plant will continue to grow vertically and develop new side shoots that want to go up in height. You repeat the above step and secure every new branch horizontally. You keep repeating this procedure, so the plant will start to grow in width, becoming a nice, full bush.

To prevent the plant from becoming too bushy at the bottom, you cut away a few lower branches. No new buds will grow from these anyway. By cutting away the lowest branches there is room for airflow and the light can also reach the lowest branches.

To get a more in-depth look into LST, you can read our guide to Low Stress Training. If you want to apply this method to autoflowers, make sure to consult our LST Autoflowers Guide.

4

ScrOG

ScrOG stands for Screen of Green, which is a training method where you stretch gauze or rope over the plants. This inhibits vertical growth upwards and the plants will grow out wider. This method is slightly more complicated to apply than LST (Low Stress Training), but produces even better results. TIP: Autoflowers are less suitable for ScrOG. Choose feminized seeds instead.

Purpose

As with many other training methods, the goal is to have your plants produce more buds, which will result in a higher final yield. 

  • The plant gets less height
  • The leaves get more light, which promotes the growth of the plant
  • The plant develops more branches and buds

When

You apply the ScrOG method in the vegetative phase when the plant is about four weeks old. 

Tools required

  • Net or rope
  • Pots
  • Prunning shears

How to do it

You will have to make a ScrOG set-up yourself, and it starts when the plants are only a few weeks old.

Steps for a ScrOG set-up

Make sure the small plants are placed in spacious pots and place these pots on the ground. As a rule of thumb, place the pots 40 cm apart. The reason for this is that the plants will grow widthwise and need the space to get enough light and air.

Make sure the light source is (directly) above the plants, so the light reaches them evenly.

When the pots are spread out on the ground, you can begin stretching the net. ScrOG nets can be bought ready-made2, but you can also make one yourself. The gaps in the net will need to be large enough for the plant to grow through, but still get support. In most cases, 10x10 cm is ideal. If the plants are already a bit bigger, do 15x15 cm. The net should be placed 20 cm above the plants, so that they can grow towards the net in the beginning.

Now that you have the ScrOG set-up ready, let the plants grow towards the net. Once they reach the net, help the plants by dividing them into the grid. We call this Braiding. This way, the tops of the plants will evenly make their way up, but the lower branches are forced to stay under the net. In this way, upward growth is slowed, and the plants will grow wide.

Pruning

Unlike topping, in ScrOG you don't cut away the top, but you remove the lower branches. This is necessary because otherwise, a proliferation of wide-spreading branches will form at the bottom. This means that the lower branches do not get any light and the growth slows down. It is also easier for mold to develop.

But wait, to become a true ScrOG master, there is even more to learn. Read our ScrOG Grow Guide to fulfill this destiny. In case you do want to apply this technique after planting autoflower seeds, you can consult our Autoflower ScrOG Guide.

5

SOG (Sea of Green)

As the name might suggest, the Sea of Green method involves placing cannabis plants close together. This is in contrast to the ScrOG technique, where the plants are placed far apart. When you place cannabis plants close together, it looks like a green oasis. This way you can accommodate more plants if you do not have a large growing space.

Purpose

By placing the plants close together in an indoor space, the growth phase is considerably shortened. The ultimate goal is faster harvests. An additional advantage is that this method allows you to grow all year round.

  • Faster harvests
  • Growing more plants in a (small) space
  • You can grow all year round

When

You can start your SOG setup when the plants are in the vegetative stage.

Tools required

  • Indoor space
  • Lights
  • Pots

How to do it

Choose a suitable space for your SOG setup. This means enough space for the pots at intervals of about 30 cm. When growing indoors, make sure the lights are directly above the pots.

Since the goal in these methods is to keep the plants low and wide, combine this technique with Low Stress Training (LST). The reason for this is that the growth process is not interrupted, and the plant reaches the flowering stage faster.

In this technique, the right light cycle is important to ensure rapid growth. In the vegetative phase, the plant needs more light. Choose a light cycle of 18 hours of light and 6 hours of darkness. At the beginning of the flowering phase, adjust the cycle to 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness.

Want to learn more about the Sea of Green method? Take a deep dive and read our guide on SOG.

6

Lollipopping

With the training technique 'Lollipopping', you remove the lower branches and leaves, allowing the plant's energy to be fully concentrated towards the buds. This technique changes the shape of the plant from a pyramid-shape with a bushy bottom, to the shape of a 'lollipop': thin stems at the bottom and beautiful full buds at the top. It is a simple method and causes the plant hardly any stress.

Purpose

By applying 'lollipopping' you increase the number of buds at the top. Buds that don't get sufficient light won't become as thick. The whole idea behind this rigorous defoliation during the flowering stage is to increase the amount of light reaching the buds. The plant can now focus all its energy and resources on the remaining buds, ultimately resulting in increased yield.

 

Another additional advantage is that watering the plants becomes easier because there is plenty of room at the bottom of the plant, so you can reach it without any problems. By deforesting at the bottom of the plant, you also improve air circulation. 

  • Higher yield
  • Simple technique
  • Improvement of the weed quality

When

Apply Lollipopping just before the flowering phase begins

Tools required

  • (Pruning) shears

How to do it

Lollipopping is really nothing more than pruning and defoliating your plant. It's called ‘lollipopping’ because you're making the bottom bare like a lollipop stick. Do keep in mind that removing too many bud sites can be counterproductive and hurt your yields!

When pruning, start at the bottom and then work your way up. Cut away the (side) branches that do not extend beyond half the plant. Because they reach halfway in height and are thus shielded from the upper branches and leaves, they hardly get any light. In other words, wasted energy. When you have removed these branches, you can already slowly see the shape of a lollipop emerging. Then work your way up and remove the remaining leaves and small branches. Stop the technique as soon as you get to about four nodes down from the top of the plant

Planning to apply lollipopping? Learn more about this grow technique in our guide to lollipopping.

7

Super Cropping

With 'Super Cropping' you bring your plants to a high stress level ('High Stress Training') which will cause them to develop huge amounts of buds. Hence, the name 'Super Cropping'. But beware, this is a very tricky technique. If you do it wrong, your harvest could be lost. With this training technique, you bend the plants so far (to an angle of 90 degrees) that the branches are damaged internally. The plant then shoots into "survival mode" and begins to repair itself. But if you damage the plant too much, chances are it won't survive. Practice makes perfect!

Purpose

This training technique will cause the plant to develop multiple full buds. It is a risky method, but when you do it right, you will benefit from true 'Super Crops'.

  • More and fuller buds
  • High chance of higher THC content
  • High risk of failure of your harvest

When

Start 'Super Cropping' during the vegetative phase.

Tools required

  • (Pruning) shears

How to do it

When the plant is big and sturdy enough, grab the top of the plant with one hand and the bottom with the other. Bend the plant to an angle of about 90 degrees. The Super Cropping technique is a high stress training that damages the inner fibers while preserving the outer lining by pinching and bending branches. Release the plant again and cut away the side shoots up to about the middle.

Now the recovery phase begins. By Super Cropping, you trigger the plant's natural defense mechanisms, causing it to take up more nutrients, thus fueling its growth. You will notice that the side shoots show new full branches with buds.

In case you want to learn more about this advanced technique, we can advise reading our ultimate guide to Super Cropping.

8

Monster Cropping

Cloning your cannabis plant during the flowering phase is called 'Monster Cropping'. When the mother plant has reached the flowering stage, you cut off a number of branches that have buds. TIP: Autoflowers are less suitable for Monster Cropping. Choose feminized seeds instead.

Purpose

'Monster Cropping' aims to grow multiple plants from the mother plant instead of starting the growing process from seeds.

  • Multiple plants instantly thanks to cloning
  • The new plants will produce more buds
  • Requires extra time because the plants need to create roots

When

Monster Cropping is carried out around the third week of the flowering phase. This gives the mother plant enough time to recover.

Tools required

  • (Pruning) shears

How to do it

To avoid damaging the mother plant too much, you cut away the branches with buds at the bottom of the plant. These are often the parts that get the least light and will not always produce weed. Do not cut off more than about five branches, otherwise there is a good chance that the mother plant will be weakened and will produce less.

After you have cut down the branches, place them in a pot with water. This way new roots can grow. Once they have roots, transfer them to a pot with soil. Thanks to this technique, you can let these little plants grow separately, which will then produce new buds. Please be advised that not all the cuttings will take. Even expert growers will find this technique challenging and encounter cuttings that will not grow. 

To make sure you are as prepared as can be to successfully apply this difficult technique, we advise you to also read our ultimate guide to Monster Cropping.

9

Manifolding / Mainlining

Manifolding is a combination of several techniques: Topping, Defoliation and Bending & Fixing systematically and consists of several steps. In manifolding, the cannabis stem is split and a Y-shaped hub is created. The result is that nutrients and resources are diverted to several branches rather than just one central cola, resulting in multiple bud sites (mainlining). You only start 'Manifolding' when the plant has five nodes. The advantage of combining these training techniques is that the plant will develop a nice even foliage with fuller buds. You also prevent the plant from growing too wide.

Purpose

With this technique, you focus on growing bigger buds in order to increase the yield in the flowering phase.

  • Growing larger buds
  • Multiple bud sites
  • Higher yields

When

As soon as the plant has five or six nodes, you can start this technique. Not before, because then there is a good chance that the plant will be damaged. 

Tools required

  • (Pruning) shears
  • Rope, iron wire
  • Bamboo branches and/or a metal support ring

How to do it

When the plant has five to six nodes, start by cutting off the topmost top-up to the 3rd node. See the training technique: Topping. After the plant is three nodes high, cut off the larger branches and leaves in the middle and at the bottom (Defoliation), visibly freeing the stem.

After a few days, bend the upper branches down slightly (Low Stress Training Technique) and secure them with string or iron wire. New side branches will grow at the top of the plant. Again, apply the Topping technique to the new branches. Do this symmetrically so that your plant fans out with equal width.

You now have two main branches. You can repeat this step up to about eight main branches, creating a full deck of leaves with buds. When the plant is getting wider and fuller at the top, it is wise to provide extra support with bamboo branches or a support ring. 

Now it's a matter of keeping an eye on your plant and preventing the metal frame from pinching it off. So you will have to trim the plant from time to time. This training technique combines well with SOG (Sea of Green).

Learn more about this grow technique in our guide to Mainlining / Manifolding weed plants.

10

Defoliation

Defoliation, as the name suggests, is the removal of the leaves of your weed plant, but in a systematic way. It is a High Stress Training Technique and is not recommended if you have little growing experience. If you remove too many leaves, the plant can be damaged and may not survive. Defoliation should not be confused with ‘Lollipopping’. In this technique you only focus on the lower branches and leaves, while with Defoliation you cut away the leaves evenly all over the plant.

Purpose

By removing the leaves from your plant, you improve light and air circulation, which will result in better growth and ultimately a higher yield.

  • Higher yield
  • High risk of failure of your harvest

When

You apply the training technique “Defoliation” during the vegetative phase. Do this only when the plant is healthy.

When (continued)

If leaves have yellow tips or hang limply, this is a signal that the plant is not at full strength. You can continue to perform the technique until the beginning of the flowering phase.

Tools required

  • (Pruning) shears

How to do it

When the plant has become bigger and stronger (vegetative phase) and starts producing more leaves, you can start with this technique. The goal is to make the important parts of your plant accessible to air and light. This means that you do the defoliation over the entire plant. But start at the bottom. Carefully cut away the large overhanging leaves first. Don't cut away too many leaves at once, because this can cause too much stress and damages the plant. If you can just see through your plant, that's the time to stop. Then work your way up. Rest the plant for 10 to 20 days and repeat the process.

In case you want to apply this grow technique to autoflowers, make sure to read our guide to 'Defoliation Autoflower Cannabis Plants'.

11

12-12 from seed

As the name suggests, this training technique has to do with the light cycle. By adjusting it to 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness, you speed up the growth process and therefore can harvest faster. DISCLAIMER While we want to be as complete as possible in this Grow Guide, we do not advise applying this technique to your weed plants. ‘12/12 from seed’ will often cause stunted plant growth and minimal yields, often less than 30 grams (1 ounce), even if you use very strong grow lights. If you want a quicker grow indoors, we would recommend growing autoflower seeds instead. You will have a shorter vegetative and flowering stage than with most photoperiod seeds, without a huge compromise on yield.

Purpose

The purpose of this method is to accelerate the moment of harvesting rather than to achieve large yields. This method is only suitable for indoor growing because of the use of lamps. The advantage, however, is that you can grow in this way all year round.

  • Faster harvests
  • The plants remain small and yield less

When

You apply this training method from the third week.

Tools required

  • Lamps with light schedule controller

How do you do it?

You apply this manipulated light cycle as soon as the plant is three to four weeks old. From that moment on, you give the plant 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. This is different from the usual cycle of 18 hours of light and 6 hours of darkness during the vegetative phase. Your plants will therefore get less light so that they can move more quickly from the vegetative phase to the flowering phase. You can then already harvest after about four months.

Looking for information on this growing method? Read our guide to 12-12 from seed.